“Drinking good wine with good food in good company is one of life’s most civilized pleasures”, British wine critic Michael Broadbent's timeless wisdom echoes when pondering about sommeliers. In Bangkok's thriving restaurant scene, where ingredients, preparation, presentation, and wine all come together in perfect harmony, there is one man who embodies this: Sommelier Guillaume Perdigues.

Three years ago, Perdigues moved from France to Bangkok and immediately set to work transforming the wine cellar at Mezzaluna, a two-Michelin-star restaurant ensconced within the exclusive lebua Hotels and Resorts at the State Tower in Bangkok, a a gleaming jewel perched majestically beside the enchanting Chao Phraya River. Mezzaluna offers an unparalleled luxury experience which earned it multiple recognition and awards, including one for its sommelier.

Sommelier Guillaume Perdigues was given the honor of being Thailand's First Michelin Sommelier Award Winner in 2023 and is deemed one of the best sommeliers in the country.

"I was very surprised at first [to receive this], as the sommelier award had never been given in Thailand before. This award is important because the Michelin Guide recognizes all sommeliers as an important part of the restaurant service team," Perdigues explains. 

Perdigues began his hospitality career as a chef intern at 18. Yet, he quickly found his true calling and passion as a wine sommelier, where the world of wine became his joy.

“I started as a chef. During my studies, I had to taste many classic French recipes. I remember my first day in class, my teacher telling us, 'If you want to be a good chef, you need to taste as many ingredients as you can and smell every odor you find in your way'. I think that applies to sommeliers as well as our nose and palate are our tool."

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A day in the life of a Michelin-starred sommelier

The role of a sommelier encompasses far more than just curating wine choices. For Perdigues, every day is different. Due to the multifaceted nature of his job, he doesn't only handle wine lists and wine pairings but also other administrative tasks like inventory management, maintaining supplier relationships, and the like.

"I usually start the day by reading my emails, then I talk with the suppliers, look at the day's bookings, and have my daily meeting with the other Food and Beverage managers. [After that], I have to make sure that all of the wines are properly stored and at the correct temperature, and we schedule some time with the chef to sample some new dishes before the meal," he narrates.

For Perdigues, the real magic of a sommelier begins during service and in the presence of guests.

"It is the sommelier's responsibility to attend to each table and sell wine, to serve every bottle and wine pairing. Delivering a unique service tailored to each customer is important to me," he points out. "Communication with visitors is simpler if you are true to yourself, confident in what you are doing, and have a good sense of humor," the French sommelier says.

Mezzaluna – two-star Michelin restaurant in the heart of Bangkok

After a period of refurbishment, Mezzaluna has reopened so that diners can indulge in seasonal tasting menus while taking in panoramic views of the river. The wine list is one-of-a-kind, stimulating, and extensive. The seamless partnership between a skilled sommelier and a talented chef elevates the gastronomic journey. At Mezzalunna, Chef de Cuisine Ryuki Kawasaki and Guillaume Perdigues collaborate to create magic together. 

“We are working closely together. Every day I get to try new types of ingredients: a new variety of flowers, different oysters, different styles of Japanese honey, tea, vegetables, etc."

Through this process, Perdigues developed a strong knowledge of Japanese ingredients, which are used in the context of French gastronomy at Mezzaluna. "My knowledge of Japanese ingredients got better which helped me find appropriate wines for each dish on our menu," Perdigues stresses.

This led him to find the best wine pairing for a dish in Mezzaluna, which was something new and unexpected. "The ‘best’ food and wine pairing we had at Mezzaluna was on a dessert: White strawberry, umeshu (sweet and sour Japanese liquor), and red shiso (aromatic leaf) surrounded by a rice foam and mascarpone sorbet. We served it with a pinot noir from Germany," he explains.

"The dessert was almost without sweetness, very light with a strong fragrance of strawberry and rice. The wine was from the 'Kirschgarten' area, extremely delicate, with subtle red fruit notes and without any tannin structure. It was awesome."

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Emerging wine regions and the impact of climate change

While the career of a sommelier is much more developed in Europe, Perdigues says it seems to be growing in Asia, particularly in Bangkok, Thailand.

"In Thailand, the sommelier profession is very new, with a very high potential. I suppose Hong Kong, Singapore, and Tokyo are much bigger markets today with many more sommeliers than Thailand but the best caliber for me is Bangkok."

While Asia's wine scene is getting more developed, climate change is affecting the production of wine. The warmer temperatures mean harvesting earlier and achieving balance in the finished wine is much more challenging.

“Global warming has a strong effect and the planet and temperatures are rising everywhere. I’m very interested to see what will happen in the UK with their sparkling wine, the production of red wine in Canada, or the increasing export of Eastern Europe/Asia wines (Romania, Bulgaria, Turkey, Georgia, or Armenia)," he points out.

"I’m curious about endemic grapes varieties that some countries have been cultivating for centuries which I don’t know about,” he muses.

Tips for upcoming sommeliers

As a Michelin-starred sommelier, Perdigues doesn't hesitate to share his tips with those who would like to become part of this amazing profession. Here are some of his words of advice to aspiring sommeliers:

Invest time in reading: Perdigues emphasizes that he spent most of his time reading books and articles. "A better knowledge helps to understand wine," he emphasizes.

Keep an open mind: To truly understand the world of wine, learn to be open. Don't hesitate to explore a wide variety of wines and spirits. Even seemingly silly pairings can lead to delightful surprises.

Travel to meet wine producers: Travel and connect with the people behind the bottles. Engage in conversations with winemakers to grasp their philosophies and the unique stories behind each label. This firsthand experience is an invaluable learning opportunity. "Talk with them, understand where they come from and their philosophy. It’s a very good way to learn," Perdigues recommends.

Personality over professionalism: When hiring sommeliers, Perdigues places greater emphasis on personality traits rather than pure professionalism. Skills can be taught, but a great attitude is harder to instill.

Embracing these tips can help upcoming sommeliers embark on their sommelier journey. Remember, becoming a top sommelier requires continuous learning, a sense of adventure, and a genuine love for the world of wine – all the qualities that Perdigues and the top sommeliers in the world possess.

"All the sommeliers I met had very different characters and personalities but they were all driven by passion and dedication for their work. I simply try to take the best from all of them and pass on to others the little knowledge I have.”

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